Haute Tech Couture
Haute Tech Couture is a research project from 2021 and the topic of my master’s thesis. It includes scientific research aimed at creating a model to guide the development of Haute Tech Couture. The thesis also defines what haute tech couture is, elucidating its intersection of high fashion and cutting-edge technology. Additionally, the thesis incorporates a practical component, where the model was tested, resulting in multiple sketches, two low-fidelity prototypes, and one high-fidelity prototype (pilot study).
The following two pictures showcase the high-fidelity prototype.
Abstract
"Haute tech couture refers to haute couture creations made with modern technologies. They can spring from the e-fashion sector or be made of textiles based on modern manufacturing techniques (such as 3D printing). The use of these technologies has attracted increasing interest in research and the fashion industry since the 2000s. With a high demand for innovation, elegance, and aesthetics, haute tech couture is a special discipline that combines several fields of expertise. The research in this thesis seeks to determine how haute tech couture is made. To this end, haute tech couture - which is still a relatively new
term in science - is initially defined in an overview and classified into wearable and
computer-based systems, with reference to garments. By looking at the manufacturing methods of representative haute tech couture projects, the technologies used are presented: computational design, 3D printing, and the integration of computer technology as a means of making technology wearable. Furthermore, the designers’ procedures were considered in detail and analyzed with the aim of developing a model for a strategic approach. Methodologically, the work was based on Philipp Mayring’s qualitative content analysis which was adapted for the research objective by examining the content of media instead
of their communication methods in order to be able to draw conclusions about their production techniques. The resulting model was tested in a pilot study to check its function and explore modern technologies in a creative field of application. The aim was the independent production of a garment which was realized in the form of one hi-fi and three lo-fi prototypes."
Source: Pätzold, F. (2022). Haute Tech Couture. [Master's Thesis]. Film University Babelsberg Konrad Wolf. Retrieved from https://opus4.kobv.de/opus4-filmuniversitaet/frontdoor/index/index/year/2022/docId/304
Part 1: Scientific Analysis and Development Model
The development model for Haute Tech Couture consists of several phases identified through research and practical application. These phases aim to create a structured approach to creating Haute Tech Couture.
The model addresses the following questions:
What phases and steps are involved in the creation of Haute Tech Couture?
In what order should these phases and steps be executed?
The identified phases are as follows:
Planning: This phase combines elements of initial planning and analysis, focusing on finding inspiration, setting goals, and defining the framework conditions.
Design: This phase involves visualizing ideas and iterating on designs based on new insights.
Implementation: This phase includes translating designs into digital and physical prototypes. The term "Implementation" is used instead of "Implementation & Integration" as not all iterations involve integration.
Testing: In this phase, the prototypes developed during Implementation are tested and evaluated. This phase is iterated as needed to refine the prototypes.
Maintenance: This final phase involves post-project review, documentation, and any necessary repairs or optimizations.
Each phase is iteratively cycled through, focusing on different aspects:
Exploration: Enhances innovation through practice-based design research.
Function: Tests resource-efficient, small-scale prototypes.
Integration: Scales and integrates the results into a cohesive product.
Competencies Required:
The creation of Haute Tech Couture requires a combination of skills in clothing design, tailoring, hardware prototyping, and software development. Teams often work collaboratively to bring together expertise from various disciplines, ensuring a high level of technical and design proficiency. This interdisciplinary approach is critical for successfully developing complex and innovative Haute Tech Couture garments.
Part 2: Practical Application, Pilot Study: Testing Haute Tech Couture Model
I'll provide visual insights into the iterations of exploration, functionality, and integration. For more detailed information on all phases, please refer to Chapter 4 of the thesis.
Exploration
The exploration cycle aims to identify and test technical possibilities for Haute Tech Couture production. In this case, it focuses on technologies like parametric design, 3D printing, and physical computing.
A. Parametric Design Experiments in Rhino
Objective: Use parametric design methods to create and manipulate surfaces within defined boundaries.
Tools: Rhino and Grasshopper software.
Outcome: Developed reusable Grasshopper programs to influence geometric shapes for potential application in clothing.
B. 3D Printing Experiments
Objective: Test 3D printing methods using designs from parametric experiments.
Tools: FDM and SLA 3D printers, 3D printing pen.
Outcome: Identified optimal printing techniques and parameters for flexible and durable textiles. Found FDM printers with PLA filament to be most suitable for textile applications due to their flexibility and recyclability.
C. Physical Computing Experiments
Objective: Assess the reliability and suitability of various electronic components in wearable technology.
Components Tested: Sensors (heartbeat, tilt, light), actuators (LEDs, EL wire, smart film), and conductive materials (paint, thread, PLA filament).
Outcome: Identified suitable sensors and actuators for integration into clothing, though challenges with conductive materials on the skin were noted.
These experiments provided valuable insights into the technical limits and potential applications of these technologies in Haute Tech Couture.
Function
Like the exploration cycle, the function cycle is iterative and aims to create digital or physical Lo-Fi prototypes representing clothing items.
Process Overview
Initial Input: Insights from the exploration cycle.
Output: Lo-Fi prototypes that represent clothing forms, considering human body contours.
Goal: Test and revise the prototype's design, construction, and manufacturing methods.
Prototypes are created on a half-scaled dress form (1:12 scale) to save materials and production time. This method is common among fashion designers.
Concept Development
Using the mood board and insights from the exploration phase, five concepts were developed:
Concepts A and B: Additively manufactured clothing items.
A: A skirt inspired by Danit Peleg’s approach, made from a 3D-printed flat textile cut and draped.
B: A flexible body-like structure, open at the back, with layered uneven surfaces, inspired by Farahi’s Bodyscape project.
Concept C: Combination of 3D printing and physical computing.
C: A framework with varying mesh density for support and flexibility, filled with smart film.
Concepts D and E: Integrations of fabric and electronic components.
D: A luminous frame decorated with tulle.
E: A corset with broad striped textile and light strips.
Three iterations were conducted, focusing on parametric design, 3D printing, and physical computing. Concepts B, C, and D were chosen for development.
A. Parametric Design in Maya (Concept B)
Tool: Maya, following the Hyper Skins webinar by DesignMorphine.
Approach: Designed around a standard female model, not initially considering printing techniques.
Challenges: Maya specializes in visualization, not physical scale. Adjusting the model for a 1:12 scale dress form and printing with uneven surfaces would be time-consuming.
Outcome: The complex and time-consuming nature of adjusting for print led to the decision to forgo printing the model.
B. 3D Printing Lo-Fi Prototype (Concept C)
Tool: 3D printing pen and PLA filament.
Approach: Manually recreated the design’s varying mesh structure. Printed pieces on rounded objects like glasses for better shape.
Challenges: Integration of smart film was unfeasible due to supplier issues. Printed parts were fragile and required extensive support structures.
Outcome: The manual process and material use were inefficient. Larger-scale printing would face significant issues, suggesting the need for better methods and materials.
C. Physical Computing Lo-Fi Prototype (Concept D)
Tool: EL wires, tulle fabric, PLA filament.
Approach: Created a framework with EL wires forming illuminated strips, covered with tulle.
Challenges: Lower-quality EL wires reduced brightness. Combining different fabric shades improved the visual effect.
Outcome: Suitable for a Hi-Fi prototype with higher-quality materials for better durability and visibility in various lighting conditions.
These function cycle iterations aimed to refine the design, ensuring practical and aesthetic feasibility for Haute Tech Couture prototypes.
Integration
In the final iteration, a Low Fidelity (Lo-Fi) prototype concept is chosen for development into a full-scale High Fidelity (Hi-Fi) prototype.
Goal: Develop a full-size Hi-Fi prototype.
Challenge: Scaling up requires careful consideration.
Concept Selection: Factors considered include tool availability, costs, aesthetics, and technical feasibility.
3D Printing Limitations: Limited access and unsatisfactory results led to the exclusion of 3D-printed elements.
Selected Concept: Physical Computing Lo-Fi Prototype (Concept D) chosen for further development.
Hi-Fi Prototype Development
Hardware Selection: LED strips chosen over EL elements for safety and simplicity.
Component Testing: Four LED strip types tested; cold white strip selected.
Framework: Metal corset chosen for stability.
System Integration
Placement: LED strips positioned at the lower back for power.
Sensor Choice: Heart rate sensor selected over an inclination sensor.
Microcontrollers: Two Arduino Nano-sized boards used for control.
Prototyping
Assembly: Interactive system prototyped with all components.
LED Configuration: Strips divided and connected via micro-USB.
Communication: Microcontrollers linked via I2C, custom PCB designed.
Framework Construction: Metal frame built, electronic components installed, and tulle draped.
Development Challenges
Time Frame: Hi-Fi prototype completed in five weeks.
Learning Curve: Required PCB design knowledge and Arduino setup.
Modularity: PCB designed for future expansions.
Final Adjustments: Some misalignments and adhesive points in metal framework addressed.
The Hi-Fi prototype successfully integrates aesthetics and functionality, showcasing potential for full-scale E-Fashion garments.
In conclusion, for those intrigued by the intricacies of Haute Tech Couture and eager to delve deeper into the subject matter, the complete thesis is available for further exploration. Click on the following link to access the source: https://opus4.kobv.de/opus4-filmuniversitaet/frontdoor/index/index/year/2022/docId/304
As you navigate the realms of smart wearables, fashion technology, or the avant-garde world of haute tech couture, feel free to reach out. Whether for discussions, collaborations, or potential projects, I'm here to infuse creativity and innovation into every endeavor. Wishing you an aesthetically pleasing day filled with boundless inspiration!
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Cheers, Your Future Creative Director 🥂
